Martin Margiela
Maison Martin Margiela is a fashion house founded in 1988 in Paris through a collaborative venture with Jenny Meirens. Its debut show took place in fall 1989 at a derelict playground in a North African neighborhood on the outskirts of Paris. The show used an uneven runway and intentionally stumbling models to create a shocking public spectacle. The debut collection rejected contemporaneous extravagance in favour of ripped sleeves, frayed hems, and clumpy shoes. Local children hand-drew invitations in school art classes and sat in the front row to honour the community. The label’s trademark is a cloth badge numbered 0–23, attached with four small white tack stitches, exposed externally on unlined garments. Margiela consistently remained backstage and declined to take a bow after shows, distinguishing himself from peers. From 1988 onward, Margiela refused all formal interviews and photographic appearances.